Historical Nis, Serbia
Foggy skies started our day… so much so that we couldn’t even see the Parliament directly across the street! Visiting Nis will work perfectly considering it won’t be a tour of nature with a lot of outdoor time. Time to put on layers of clothes!
Before I jump into sharing our day, I’ve been wanting to show you our elevator. We are staying on the seventh floor… well, technically the eighth since they start at zero. Several times a day, we step in this very small elevator run by an exposed chain and pulley. At first it was a bit worrisome but we are used to it now. What’s unnerving is that when we step in, the elevator drops down a tad bit…
Heading to our meeting spot, we waited for Alexander to pick us up… bright and early at 8am. We thought it best to get an early start because Nis is two hours away! Once on our way, we made a pit stop for a coffee. We had a challenge with the language… I requested 2 coffees and the clerk set two Pepsi’s in front of me. Repeating that I wanted two coffees, she nodded… okay, then the coffee was handed to me. In addition to the dose of caffeine, I asked for one croissant and got two… and a Mars bar. Alexander asked about the Pepsi and it turned out it was a “free” addition that only added a little money to the total bill.
With a personal connection to WWII, Barry was intrigued to visit Red Cross Nazi Concentration Camp. It’s been several years since we took his Dad back to Stalag Luft 3, the Prisoner of War camp he spent two and a half years. This Nazi camp was run by German Gestapo and was used as a holding facility for Serbs, Jews and Romanis. Photo on the left was the wall surrounding the camp. Middle photo actually housed prisoners waiting to be “handled”… whether shot or transferred to be used for free labor. On the right, the building that housed the kitchen and dining hall.
Once or twice a week, prisoners were gathered and taken to a nearby hill to be shot. In this room, we viewed photo after photo of victims. The walls full of stories and quotes, display cases full of artifacts.
A couple times a week, groups of prisoners would be rounded up before dawn. They would be taken up the hill to be shot. No one really knew when their time would come but they all knew it was inevitable. A bi-lingual maintenance man, overheard the Nazi plan to take more up the hill so 150 men decided to attempt an escape. What did they have to lose? They figured if enough made a run for it, the guards could only pick off a small percentage of them. February 12, 1942, before dawn, 105 men were able to successfully escape. 42 were died along the way. Due to this and another attempt in December, this became a death camp.
Artifacts were displayed… this gun is an example of the weaponry. The middle photo is where the prisoners slept. No mattresses, no blankets, just hay. On the left is writing on one of the walls in the camp. Men and boys over the age of 14 were kept in this camp to be eventually taken up the hill. The women and children were put on busses to Belgrade and gassed. So hard to believe we stood on the grounds where all this took place…
As a former educator, this story touched me. Teacher Yelena Glavashki, provided false documents for a student, Jennie Lebel, whose father had been shot and mother gassed. The two worked together until they were arrested. Yelena was executed, Jennie imprisoned in Germany until the liberation. She was forever thankful for the help of Ms Glavashki.
Another extraordinary story involves Communist party member, Konrad Zilnik, who fell in love with, student of philosophy, Milica Suvakovic-Masa. Shortly after meeting, they married and she became pregnant. On an assignment for the Party, a raid occurred and she was discovered in the apartment of Professor Dusanka Kopac. Because she was close to giving birth, she was put in a camp. After delivering she was taken to the mountain to be shot. With both parents killed, Red Cross cared for the baby. He grew up to be a famous film director!
Other sights from around the downstairs section of the camp…
On the third floor, we found “solitary confinement”. Being near the roof, with window-less skylights, it was exposed to extreme temperatures! Very cold in the winter, hot in the summer.
Probably the worst part of solitary is the torture tactics. Laying barbed wire across the entire length of the floor made it impossible for prisoner to sleep. Lack of sleep over days, made them crazy!
Deteriorating, this camp remains in its place, surrounded by homes and businesses. It is another reminder of the battles fought for Serbian freedom. Walking out, we noticed the barbed wire fence. Turns out that was the only barrier between the concentration camp and freedom until the first escape attempt. Then the big wall was built around the perimeter.
Leaving the camp, we headed to Bubanj Hill. Everything at the memorial held significance… the pathway signifies the path to freedom. It was oddly serene considering an estimated 10,000 people walked this way, heading to their death.
The first sighting was powerful having learned so much about what occurred there. Kids were playing on the grass, families enjoying BBQ’s on the same land with thousands buried beneath them. When prisoners were loaded into trucks, marched up the hill and lined up… ten at a time… One by one they were shot. The sound echoed throughout the town and could be heard from the camp. When the next ten walked up, they had to drag the ten dead bodies into an open grave and stand in their place. After being shot, the next ten dragged their bodies to the grave… and on and on. A memorial was built to honor the 10,000 lives lost here.
Posers that we are… Alexander snapped a picture of us in front of the fists…
Each of these three concrete obelisks are different sizes. One for men, women and children… the hands who defied the enemy. At first it seemed strange that there was not a sense of somber respect at this location. The more I thought about it… having laughter, family gatherings are a great example that life goes on!
The six fists represent the six republics formed after the liberation. On the right is a quote that really struck me: “They were shooting us, but they’ve never defeated us. We’ve crushed the darkness and paved the way for the sun.”
On our drive to the next stop… apartment buildings! Blocks of this same type of structure.
Perfect stop for Halloween weekend? Walking toward the building, nothing gave hint to what was inside! Quite an interesting story behind Skull Tower. With the Ottoman’s surrounding the Serbian rebels, the commander came up with a plan. Ammunition was running low so he gave the rebel fighters the option of walking away but they vowed to stay with their leader. As the Ottoman fighters surrounded, Steven Sindelic detonated a powder magazine killing 1000 of his own men… but he also killed 3000 of the opposition! Governor Pasha ordered the skulls be gathered up and a tower created. It was strategically placed near the main transport road to Istanbul, as a reminder of what will happen if the Turks think to mess with Serbia.
Obviously in deep discussion about the wall before us. Originally, 952 skulls placed in rows of fourteen graced the wall. As of last count, 58 skulls remain.
Creepy and fascinating at the same time…
Placed under special cover, it is believed that this skull is that of Commander Steven Sindelic. The main clue to his identity is that it was found at the top of the tower.
Again located in the heart of town, this fortress has quite a history. Originally constructed by Ancient Roman, Byzantine, during WWI it was a prison camp run by the Bulgarians. It held Serbian patriots. Outside the fortress is a moat.
Just inside the wall is a fun Jazz Club. Home to a very popular yearly jazz festival, many popular international musicians (including Americans) perform. Notice the play on words? “Nishville” for Nashville.
Considering the age of the Nis Fortress, it is in remarkably good shape. Much of the outside walls are intact and the interior has areas from several different eras.
This lapidarium contains the tombstones of important Serbians. The bigger and fancier the tombstone, the more important the person buried there. Quite an interesting collection.
In the middle of the plaza is a statue called, “The Monument for the Liberators of Nis”. The second statue is a whimsical depiction of author, Stevan Sreman, who is considered one of the best humorous authors of Nis… talking to a guy known for telling exaggerated tales.
Stopping for a bite to eat, Sangria looked to be the best choice! We are still having trouble adapting to the dining times in the two countries we’ve visited. We are told that here in Serbia, it’s coffee… then a late lunch around three and a light dinner. We are okay with the bigger lunch, lighter dinner but we are starving by three…
Couldn’t resist… had to take a photo of the “lock” on the door. Every stall was this way. Trying to lock the door, I was looking at the knob but finally looked up and saw this contraption!
Down one of the side streets, we found an artifact museum. Small in square space, the room was full of items dating back as far as 6000BC. Fascinating…
With a two hour drive back to Belgrade, it was time to get back on the road. Loved the lighting on the buildings… since daylight savings time (last Sunday), it gets dark pretty early! Another fun day!
